Photo by Liz Arave Hafen
By Lynn Arave
THE ZION NARROWS are undoubtedly one of the premier hikes in all of Utah. Unique, stupendous, awe-inspiring are all among the words used to describe them.
But were the first to hike the "Narrows"?
The Native Americans generally avoided the upper portion of Zion Canyon, it being too dark and narrow -- an almost a devilish like of place to them.
Geologist Grove Karl Gilbert was the first man known to traverse the Zion Narrows back in 1872, as part of a government survey expedition led by Major John Wesley Powell. Gilbert actually made the trip on horseback and it is believed that he first used the term "The Narrows."
The Virgin River name itself, which created the Narrows, has an uncertain origin. Virgin itself is likely of Spanish origin, in honor of the Virgin Mary. However, some records claim Thomas Virgin, an 1820s explorer/mountain man, is where the name came from.
The River also had 3 other names in the 19th Century or before: 1. Jedediah Smith had named it the Adams River, in honor of U.S. President John Adams; and 2. Powell had named it the River's two forks the Parunuweap and the Mukuntuweap, for Native American credit. Neither of those name stuck; and 3 The early Spainards called it El Rio de Sulfuereo after some nearby hot sulphur springs.
After Gilbert's horseback ride, the Zion Narrows had no known explorers, likely because nearby settlers were tired of the Virgin River periodically flooding its banks and hiking recreation was still something few had time for, amidst as harsh western lifestyle.
-William H. Flanigan, a Cedar City resident, became a popular explorer of Southern Utah. He first hiked the Narrows in June of 1900, at age 23, going the entire length from northeast to Springdale in a single day.
(Later, he and a brother Dave, became well known for establishing the cable on Cable Mountain in Zion.)
Horseback trips through the Narrows were fairly common over the decades, but were officially banned there in the 1960s.
Flanigan told the Iron County Register newspaper on Aug. 29, 1913 about the Narrows.
He then recommended travel by foot.
"The entire distance would be through a stream of water from a few inches to two or three feet in depth, in a few places. At some points the canyon partakes of the nature of a tunnel, owing to its winding course and the overhanging ledges above.At no point is the canyon more than 100 yards in width and in many places it is little more than a crevice in the solid rock," the newspaper report stated.
Walls of rock up to 3,000-feet heavenward and a narrow canyon 12 miles in length were its dimensions.
-By 1909, the area was a National Monument and then became Zion National Park in 1919 and visitors were flocking there.
"Upper Zion has greatest thrill, Declares party" was an Aug. 24, 1925 headline in the Salt Lake Telegram Newspaper.
Thirteen men spent two days exploring the Zion Narrows.
"Never could one see more than a few hundred yards ahead," their report stated.
"The most notable discovery of the trip was the comparative ease as which the course can be presently traveled. Excepting for log jams, which might be easily dispensed with, the journey could be made on horseback," the report said.
"Those making the trip declare that Upper Zion Canyon holds thrills for the tourist not dreamed of ..."
-The next big development on the Zion Narrows was the opening of a formal "Gateway to the Narrows" trail in August of 1929.
According to the Iron County Record Newspaper of Aug. 21, 1929, the trail was five-feet wide and covered with tar and pea gravel.
"It eliminates the old narrow sand path and does away with the great many sharp pitches and hard climbs, enabling the tourists more easily to go to the upper reaches of the canyon," the story stated.
-Another big item of note was the organization of a "Zion Narrows Club" in 1941. The Iron County Record of Sept. 25, 1941 stated that it was William Flanigan himself who was named "Chief Scout" of this group of 20 men in the Club. The new group was going to plan a big hike through the Narrows in the summer of 1942, though the outbreak of World War II might have impacted that desire.
-What apparently no one calculated was the tremendous flood danger that hiking the Zion Narrows presented. It could storm dozens of miles away and out of sight of Zion Park and still flood the narrow canyon. Sheer luck seemed to prevent such a tragedy for decades, that is until September of 1961 when 4 Murray Boy Scouts were killed in a flashflood there.
Two of the boys' bodies were never found. After that, the Park Service began to take extra precautions about flashflood warnings.
-The next development came in the September of 1965 when a prominent side
canyon of the Zion Narrows, Orderville Gulch was first hiked. Three Leigh
brothers – Ralph, Edwin and Douglas made what might be the first hike through
that narrow canyon into the Zion Narrows. They had to lower themselves over six
waterfalls.
(Note: The content above was published in the Sept. 16, 2016 Deseret News.)
(Note: The content above was published in the Sept. 16, 2016 Deseret News.)
-Another milestone in the Narrows was completed in 1974 when Otto Fife, then 74, of Cedar City, completed his 50th trip through the Zion Narrows. He had made his first trek in 1925 at age 25.
Some of Fife's experiences included:
1. Giving a bored Scout a stick and telling him to make a notch in it every time they had to cross the river. The boy ended up making 252 notches in a trek along the entire length of the Narrows.
2. In the summer of 1965, Fife was detained two days on high ground in the Narrows because of high water and flashfloods.
3. In 1967, he saw an ill 60-year-old woman have to helicoptered out of the Narrows.
-I've hiked the Narrows 3 times and believe strongly that the BEST/MOST SCENIC places are in between the end of The Gateway to the Narrows paved trail and Big Springs. Thus a half-way hike offers a very optimal experience in the Narrows.
Also, if a special catwalk, a metal bridge could be added just another 100 yards around the corner and north of where the Gateway to the Narrows trail ends, many visitors could see a sampling of what the Narrows is really all about, as the current trail ends before you really see much of note.
Photo by Liz Arave Hafen.
-Here's what I wrote in the Deseret News of Sept. 17, 1992 after my first trek through the Narrows:
Perhaps the best hike in the Narrows is actually from the bottom. A four to five hour leisurely hike from the Gateway to the Narrows parking lot can reach Big Springs (six miles away). Doubling back is not boring, but is an endurance test. How far you actually walk depend on your exact route and how much criss-crossing you do.
A three-mile stretch of the Narrows just below the springs and just above Orderville Canyon is called "Wall Street." It's the narrowest of the Narrows. Exploring Orderville Canyon, another narrow chasm about 21/2 miles up on the east, is also exciting.
According to Denny Davies, public information officer for Zion, more people do short hikes from the bottom than long hikes from the top.
No permits are needed for hiking from the bottom of the Narrows, but hikers should be cautious not to travel further up than they have time, daylight or stamina for. Parking is very limited at the Gateway to the Narrows and by noon on weekends, the lot may be full - even after Labor Day.
Many hikers do hike the entire length of the Narrows, starting at the trail register near Chamberlain's Ranch and making the trip a two-day backpacking trek or by rushing in one day to make the trip before dark. However, many have discovered this endurance test diminishes the enjoyment of the trip because by the time the narrowest of the narrows are reached more than eight miles down the line, sore legs, heavy packs and fatigue make it an "I just want to finish this" experience.
To hike the entire Narrows, two cars are also needed, unless the shuttle service from Zion Lodge is used.
Davies also said for the first time ever, limits went into effect earlier this year allowing only 80 hikers a day from the top down because of overuse and like most Zion hikes, no groups larger than 12 persons may use the trail.
"One problem with the Narrows is that its been loved to death," Davies said.
There are 12 different campsites available in the Narrows above Big Springs and like the 80 free permits, these are also available on a first-come, first-serve basis beginning at 5 p.m. the previous day at the visitor's center. (Hikers can start lining up for the permits at 4:30 p.m.) No camping is permitted below Big Springs.
There is no maintained Narrows trail - it's just wading in the water, at least 65 percent of the time and only persons 48 inches or taller should hike there. (There are no definite age restrictions, but age 14 is a suggested minimum age.)
Davies said the average speed through the Narrows is only one mile per hour, so allowances must be made for how much daylight is available. Hiking through the Narrows with a flashlight is very difficult and without one, travel is impossible. Hiking downstream is not much faster than going upstream either.
Flash floods have always been the biggest danger in the Narrows. In September of 1961, five people died after being caught in a portion of the Narrows with no high ground. On Sept. 5, 1965, 45 hikers were stranded in the Narrows when a sudden storm sent a 10-foot wall of water down the gorge at 5 a.m.
Since those incidents, the weather at Zion is carefully monitored and all Narrows' hikers should check with a ranger for weather reports. The Narrows flood danger is regularly rated by four categories: low, moderate, high and extreme. Narrows travel is not recommended in "high" conditions and is closed in "extreme" periods. Weather reports are available in late afternoon for the following day.
From August to mid-September of this year, the Narrows has been closed eight to 10 times for stormy weather, according to Davies.
(Traditionally, late June, early July and late September are the ideal times for Narrows hiking. After October, wet suits are needed. Temperature, wind and water flow conditions can combine to close the Narrows at any time.)
Despite the occurrence of sudden September storms, dry weather this month has made it ideal for hiking the Narrows. Except for some deep holes that can be avoided, the highest water level is currently only about 32 inches. Still, knowing how to swim is a comforting skill all Narrows hikers would be wise to have.
Walking sticks can aid Narrows hikers with their balance and they can also probe for deep river holes.
Davies suggests a careful selection of footwear for Narrows hiking. Comfort and traction are big concerns and Davies said leather shoes are the worst choice and nylon the best.
Some unprepared people try to hike the Narrows barefooted, while others have found heavy-duty thongs work surprisingly well. An extra set of dry clothes, including shoes is suggested. To protect cameras, plastic bags or waterproof cases are recommended.
Even though the rest of Zion Park may bask is 90-plus degree temperatures this time of year, the Narrows, are almost always in the shade and temperatures are 20-30 degrees lower. The river water temperature never exceeds 65 degrees and was 55-58 degrees on Sept. 12. This makes hypothermia another hazard.
Davies said extreme caution should exercised in the Narrows because there's only one spot where even a top-notch helicopter pilot can land. Otherwise, stretchers are the only form of rescue. For example, a 250-pound woman who underestimated the stamina required for the hike was taken out by stretcher last month.
Litter is another common Narrows problem. Rangers collect and carry out more than 15 pounds of trash every time they patrol the length of the hike. Davies stressed hikers should ideally be 100 feet from the water and dig a six-inch hole to use the bathroom in the Narrows. Used toilet paper should also be carried out.
The Sept. 2 Southern Utah earthquake closed the Narrows for about a day while rangers checked the gorge, but only small rockfalls were found.
-NOTE: The author, Lynn Arave, is available to speak to groups, clubs, classes or other organizations about Utah history at no charge. He can be contacted by email at: lynnarave@comcast.net
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