Thursday, February 11, 2021

The beginnings of the Alpine Loop; Plus, the legacy of Bridal Veil Falls



                           The N.E. side of Timpanogos Peak and shelter, near Emerald Lake.

TIMPANOGOS Peak has long been an alluring natural gem for Utah County residents. In fact, the first road to access the base of the mountain was built in 1920. However, according to the Salt Lake Telegram of March 10, 1921, that dirt road “proved unsatisfactory, being too steep and being almost obliterated by heavy rains” in its first season.
The Telegram reported that plans were made in the spring of 1921 to build a better and more durable road to what was then known as “community flat,” likely the top of American Fork Canyon.
It took more than two seasons to construct a new road and the Provo Daily Herald of Aug. 21, 1923 reported that it opened that month as “the most renowned scenic highway in the state.”
The Daily Herald stated that a half-day holiday was declared on Aug. 22 of that year for summer students at Brigham Young University to enjoy the new road – a loop path into Provo Canyon -- that was far less steep than the original route.
“Views which have never been seen before by the auto traveler of the magnetic Timpanogos and its glacier will now be viewed by thousands,” the Herald stated.

          Mountain goats love the rocky edges of Timpanogos Peak.                   Photo by Ray Borten.

Two years later, in June of 1925, the Daily Herald (June 29) reported that a group of Provo residents who were hiking trail to Timp witnessed a tremendous landslide of earth and snow that crossed the trail over which they had just traveled.
The Pleasant Grove Review of Sept. 2, 1938 was one of the first newspapers to use the name “Alpine Loop” for the 15-year-old dirt road. It also stated that the road was closed that month to through travel for a large widening and resurfacing project.
The Salt Lake Telegram of Sept. 19, 1951 recorded that the Alpine Loop was paved later that month for the first time.
Now a paved loop, the Alpine Loop experienced a huge surge in usage for both first-time users, as well as admirers of the fall leaf colors. The Utah State Highway Department had to assign highway patrolmen to the road, to lessen the traffic jams on weekends, according to the Telegram of Oct. 21 that year.
The paved road was also wider, with less sharp turns.
“The vistas of flaming yellows and brilliant reds against the green of fir and pine are literally breathtaking,” the Telegram report stated.
The Tooele Bulletin newspaper of July 17, 1962 reported “Alpine Scenic Loop trip offers many noted tourist attractions.” The world’s steepest tramway (in Provo Canyon), a limestone cave (Timp Cave in American Fork Canyon) and realistic life-size dinosaurs (“Dinosaur World” in Draper) were all claimed as world-class attractions.
The Springville Herald of Oct. 6, 1966, declared the Timp section of the Wasatch Mountains as the “Alps of America.” This newspaper report described the Alpine Loop as “Virgin forest unspoiled by civilization.”
-Most of the Alpine Loop road reports overlooked Bridal Veil Falls in Provo Canyon. However, the first newspaper mention of the falls was in the Salt Lake Herald Republican newspaper of June 29, 1879.
The Deseret Evening News of May 16, 1903 published a large photograph of Bridal Veil and highlighted it as being along the Rio Grande Railroad route.
Ironically, just over a month earlier, the Salt Lake Telegram of April 4, 1903 carried the headline, “Huge boulders fall from mountain top at Bridal Veil Falls, tearing up railroad track nearly 200 feet.”
An army of men had to use dynamite to clear the tracks of gigantic rocks, before they could repair the railroad route.
By 1904, Bridal Veil Falls had become its own tourist attraction. The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad offered a ride from downtown Provo to the falls and back for $1.25 on weekends.
In 1906, a huge controversy broke out when the Telluride Power Company wanted to divert the water from above and generate power there. This led to many petitions to the U.S. Department of Interior to block such a plan – and it was halted.
The Salt Lake Telegram of Oct. 10, 1928 reported that the Provo Kiwanis Club’s plan to build a side road and pullout for up to 15 cars to access Bridal Veil Falls was nearly completed. Then, more than just railroad passengers could enjoy the waterfall.
Jump to 1966 and the Springville Herald of Oct. 6 stated that with an investment of more than one-half million dollars, a skyride above Bridal Veil Falls had become a major tourist attraction in Provo Canyon.
Rue L. Clegg purchased the land surrounding Bridal Veil in 1936 and in 1961, the steepest aerial tramway in the world (the cable was 1,753 feet long and the tram climbed 1,228 vertical feet) opened, along with a cliff top restaurant and gift shop. Some 300,000 riders had taken the tram in its first 5 years of usage.
The tramway continued through the 1995 season, before a fire, an avalanche and a required U.S. Government Environmental Study halted its reopening permanently. Eventually, even the cable and all traces of the tram and buildings were removed.










1906: When Utah had a 'missing' mountain




                                                             The top of Kings Peak.

CAN you lose a mountain?
The Richfield Reaper newspaper highlighted such a supposed mystery in its April 5, 1906 edition and that query cannot be found anywhere else. At the least it highlights how little was known about Utah’s highest summits in the early 20th Century.


“Where is Mount Hodges?” the newspaper asked in a story titled, “The mountain giants of Utah.” It claimed Utah had seven peaks over 13,000 feet in height and that Mount Hodges was the kingpin of them all at 13,687 feet.
“This is about the largest piece of property that has ever been lost, strayed or stolen in a civilized country, and in comparison would make any of the numerous lost mines assume diminutive proportions. A mountain reaching nearly three miles vertical above sea level, unless it has changed its name and is posing under a nom de plume, ought not to be difficult to find. Mount Hodges, the largest unlocated peak in Utah, was named many years ago by Clarence King of the geological survey. While no reward is offered for its apprehension, word of its whereabouts would doubtless be gladly and thankfully received by the residents of the state,” the essence of the Richfield, Utah newspaper report stated.
The old Richfield newspaper story reported that Mount Hodges could not be found on any map. The writer did not list his source for Mount Hodges even existing. Yet, he also listed six other Utah peaks that were believed to be over 13,000 feet – Gilbert, Emmons, Wilson, Lovenia, Tokewanna and Mt. Peale. That’s where the answer to his puzzle is likely found.
Today, a Google or map search yields no Mount Hodges and no similarly named peak that rises over 13,000 feet.
Here’s the actual height in feet and the ranking among Utah’s tallest summits for the six mountains he listed: 3. Gilbert, 13,442; 4. Emmons, 13,440; 5. Lovenia, 13,219; 6. Tokewanna, 13, 165; 9. Wilson, 13,049; and 14. Mt. Peale, 12,721.
What’s missing on that modern and accurate list of tallest summits in Utah is none other that Utah’s highest, Kings Peak, 13,528 and the runnerup, South Kings Peak, 13,512.

                                South Kings Peak.

Could it be that whatever source the Richfield newspaper was using more than 11 decades ago did not have the Kings Peak name, but Hodges instead? Kings Peak is actually named for Clarence King of the U.S. Geological Survey and as the state’s tallest fits this puzzle nicely.
-Notwithstanding the lack of facts in 1906 for those mountains, a much older story in the Deseret News story of Aug. 26, 1874 was more on the mark, but still incomplete.
 The story lamented how neighboring Colorado boasted having six peaks with summits over 14,000 feet, while Utah has none. (In reality, Colorado has 56 named summits over 14,000 feet.)

          Mount Elbert in Colorado, that state's highes peak at 14,433 feet above sea level.

“This beats the best we can do in Utah,” the report by C.R. Savage stated. “Peak climbing is fashionable in that Territory. With us it is not. Visitors to Utah get all their impressions from our city hotels. Very few pierce the hidden wonders of the Wasatch, as seen in Big Cottonwood and American Fork canyons, southward, our Clear Creek, Little Zion valleys, etc.”
What was “Little Zion?” The Deseret News of April 16, 1875 stated, “Those who admire the wonders of nature should pay a visit to Little Zion valley.”

This was one of the very first references to what would become Zion National Park. “Little Zion” was its name then, as some in Utah Territory still thought strictly speaking, Salt Lake City was the true Zion.
Even as late as 1916, “Little Zion” was how the future national park was still referred to. The Washington County News of St. George in its Oct. 12, 1916 edition called it that.


-Access to Zion National Park was also Not a direct route during its early years. The Beaver County News of Oct. 21, 1937 reported on a new $240,000 bridge over the Virgin River that shortened the distance between Hurricane and St. George by 13 miles – and that this also shortened the distance to Zion Park by the same distance.


The story stated the new bridge “makes unnecessary further use of the one of the most tortuous and dangerous dugways in the state.”
The Hurricane Chamber of Commerce hosted a full day of celebration for the new bridge, noting that a new high school, LDS chapel and a culinary water system were all added to Hurricane in the past two years.




One of the first climbs of Mount Nebo -- by horseback, from the west side, in 1887





PERHAPS the first published account of a climb to the top of Mount Nebo, the tallest summit in the Wasatch Mountains, was in the Deseret News of Aug. 3, 1887. And, it was mostly done on horseback from the west side.
"Mount Nebo. An interesting account of the ascent of this majestic peak" was the headline. Dr. Park, J.H. Paul, both of Salt Lake; F.W. Chappell, T.L. Foote, Mr. Noble and Mr. Field, all of Nephi, were the climbers.
This early trek, on July 22, 1887, started at Mona, on the west side of Mount Nebo, in contrast to modern climbs beginning on the east side. The group rode horses up Willow Canyon. They went to about the 6,700-foot level and then rested for the night and continued the morning of July 23. With horses, they were able to easily carry many supplies.


                                               The triple peaks of Mount Nebo.

"Ascending over gravel beds, rocks and drifted soil, through oak-brush, maples, plues and groves of quaking ass, past witches' rocks and over fields of broken, shifting slate,; along narrow trails facing a steep descent of a thousand feet, past great precipitous ledges, and tolling up the last cone-like steep, we reached the apex of Mt. Nebo -- the giant of the Wasatch Range. A cold wind from over several snowbanks saluted and chilled us." the story stated.
"The light atmosphere made the smallest amount of clambering around the mountain very laborious and most of the party complained or headache or dizziness and cold feet. 
While the writer agreed that this Mount Nebo didn't have the religious history of the original peak in the Old Testament, "it far surpasses it in physical grandeur," he wrote.
On the summit, the story stated, "We could see Fountain Green, Moroni, Ephraim, part of Manti, Mount Pleasant, Nephi, Leamington, Moria, Deseret, Goshen, the west fields of Santaquin, Provo, American Fork, Lehi and the cemetery of Salt Lake City."
(The cemetery view seems unlikely, though.)
The group measured the temperature as 24 degrees and saw six-foot deep snowbanks near the summit.
The story ended with, "Altogether, Mt. Nebo is not difficult of ascent, but is not safe to those unaccustomed to the saddle and far too rough and hazardous for ladies. Our train of seven horseman made a pretty sight along the steep serpentine trail, down which some of the Nephi horsemen occasionally rode at breakneck speed."
-MORE HISTORY: "No deer shooting in county this year" was an Oct. 17, 1929 headline in the Weekly Reflex newspaper. This report stated that due to small herds of deer, no hunting would be permitted that year in both Davis and Salt Lake counties. It stated the ban would likely extend for two years.
-EAST CANYON RESERVOIR BEGINNINGS: The Salt Lake Tribune of April 26, 1895, reported how much the east canyon area, about five miles south of Morgan, lended itself as a perfect spot for a dam and reservoir. A 65-foot-high dam was created and it was first filled in 1896, to the delight of Morgan farmers. Today's 260-foot-high dam at East Canyon was built in the early 1960s.
-NORTH DAVIS JUNIOR HIGH SCHOOL opened in the fall of 1939, according to the Weekly Reflex of Sept. 28, 1939. However, the school was not finished until weeks after the students arrived and the newspaper reported that students had to "double up." The cost of the two-story school was $173,000. Students from Kaysville south in Davis County attended there and its initial enrollment was 593.


1941: When many Kaysville street names changed


ANOTHER series of changes in Kaysville City occurred in 1941, when some street names were changed and many were renumbered.
According to the Davis County Clipper of March 14, 1941, Seventh West, also known as Highway 91 became Main Street. Also, Locust Street was retitled as Center Street that year.
"Cemetery Road" was also switched to Crestwood Road and Walnut Street became Third North Street.
In addition, on the west side of Main Street, Sixth Street became First West Street and in order, Second West, Third West, Fourth West, Fifth West and Sixth West closed out a consistent numerical change.
Streets running east of west from Center also became First South, Second South and etc., also in an orderly fashion of titles.


                     200 West and 200 North in Kaysville haven't always been named that,


-BUSINESSES in Kaysville have also changed a lot in 70 years. A featured business listing in the Davis Reflex Journal ("Weekly Reflex") newspaper 20 of the City's main businesses and today only one remains ...
The listing:
Stewart's Gift Shop
Brick Wood Company
Conoco Service
Chick's Barber Shop
Frost Drug Company
Larkin's Tap Room/Lunch room
Davis Farm Co-Op
"91" Cafe
Kaysville Builders Supply
Bowman's 
-Bowman's is the one of the 10 still operating today.

-LARGEST CITY IN NORTH DAVIS COUNTY was how an Oct. 15, 1925 described Kaysville.  The Weekly Reflex of that date also claimed Kaysville had the "Best water on earth." 

When Lagoon held a 'Bathing Girls' Revue'; Plus more history



BACK in 1918, Lagoon resort hauled in plenty of white sand to Farmington, to create its own
version of "Walkiki Beach.” To highlight the second year of the sands, it again held a “Beauty Parade.”
The Salt Lake Tribune of July 15, 1919, described it this way, “Walkiki Beach will be the scene of brilliant affair on the occasion of the second annual Bathing Girls’ Revue next Friday. Sixty beautiful maids – forms divine – suits superb – will vie for first honors on the white sand beach, while swimming races, high diving and fancy diving contests will augment the interest of the occasion.”
A few years later, Lagoon even hauled in more white sand to expand its beach, promoting its fresh water setting in favor of Saltair’s briny and muddy beach.

                                Malan's Peak.

MORE HISTORY: Weber State College used to set fire to Malan’s Basin, to create a “Flaming Block W” each fall on the mountainside during its annual hike up the Wasatch Mountains.
“College seeks locations for fires on peak” was a Sept. 5, 1939 headline in the Ogden Standard-Examiner.
“Locations for a huge ‘flaming W’ on Malan’s heights and a campfire program in Malan’s basin for the annual Weber College moonlight hike were being sought today by school and student body officials …” the story stated.


                                                        Malan's Basin today.

The hike that year was planned for Sept. 25, the evening of the opening day of school.
(That same newspaper reported that the very first ever issue of the college’s new newspaper, The Signpost, was due out on Sept. 18.)
Two years prior, the Standard-Examiner of Sept. 15, 1937, reported that “Novel features planned for the hike included lectures on moonlight and snakes by the faculty members and a song and yell fest around a flaming block ‘W’ in Malan’s basin,” that story stated.
The Flaming W hike was discontinued during World War II. It was restarted in 1988 as a much longer annual hike to the highest peak in the area, Mount Ogden, which overlooks Malan’s Basin.
(Because of forest fire danger, no fires were held in the modern event, though in the fall of 1977, having a fire on Malan’s Peak was discussed by college fraternities, but never happened.)
-Bears were commonly killed in the early 20th Century around Ogden and most of the country. “Five bears killed” was a Nov. 2, 1909 headline in the Ogden Standard. “Bill” Wilson, Jr., one of the managers of the Hermitage in Ogden Canyon, killed four black bears, south of the Shanghai Bridge, a day prior. Richard Wilson of Huntsville also killed a fifth bear in the same area shortly thereafter.

                              A more rustic campfire area in Coldwater Canyon today.

-Coldwater Canyon, a side canyon about a mile up Ogden Canyon, used to contain picnic tables and even “water hydrants,” according to the Standard-Examiner of April 10, 1941. Coldwater was also a prime source of drinking water for Ogden City, prior to Pineview Reservoir.

                                         The western side of Fremont Island.

-“The new look at progressive Weber County” was the title of a full-page advertisement in the Standard-Examiner of March 28, 1965. This ad, by the Weber County Commission, featured a wish list of future plans. Included were the development of Fremont Island and Malan’s Basin, two things which never happened.

-Finally, the Ogden Junction newspaper of June 20, 1874 reported on “That earthquake,” perhaps the first quake in the Ogden area. “We have the testimony of several trustworthy ladies and gentlemen that mother earth did tremble and quake about two minutes past midnight on Wednesday night or Thursday morning, whichever your please,” the story stated.

When a wall of water swept through Manti

                                            Manti Creek.

UTAH was plagued by some summer cloudbursts and flooding in the early 20th Century. Mostly caused by overgrazing, the most infamous of such floods struck Willard and Farmington in the early 1920s. However, a summer flood in 1899 -- several decades earlier -- devastated Manti, Utah.


                                      The mouth of Manti Canyon.

"A wall of water. The City of Manti swept by a cloudburst. Streets turned into a raging river. Thousands of dollars of damage done -- No lives are lost" was a July 14, 1899 headline in the Times-News of Nephi, Utah.  The flood, with overgrazing by sheep as a contributing factor -- roared out of Manti Canyon, on the City's east side and made the town look like the bed of a river.


                        Sheep were common livestock Utah, but led to overgrazing.

"At about 6:45 (p.m.) some men came riding down from the canyon, shouting that a flood was coming, but the people were loth to believe the report," the newspaper stated. "In an incredible short time after the warning a wall of water about eight or ten feet high came rushing down the creek carrying with it an immense quantity of logs, stumps and other debris."
Some logs jammed under a bridge, forming a dam and directing much of the water into town. Cellars were filled with mud and crops were damaged. It was estimated that up to $60,000 damage was done to the town. A mass meeting of residents was called to start a cleanup effort.


 The Manti Temple was not damaged by the 1899 flood, being located on a hill in town.

-"One less bear to prey on herds that graze in Manti Canyon" was a July 23, 1907 headline in the Salt Lake Herald Republican newspaper. Nephi Ottosen killed a 500-pound bear in a hunting expedition to go after the bruin who was responsible for killing livestock. He shot the bear from 15 feet away as it approached him.
A few months earlier, a large grizzly bear had been killed with poison honey in Manti Canyon. Ranchers had reported that five or six cows a week were killed in the spring of 1907 and that the first bear killed didn't stop the damage.
"Bear tracks in the mountains are almost as common as those made by the cattle," the newspaper reported.

NOTE that the early 20th Century was the time for the last of Utah's grizzly bears to be wiped out. Besides the Manti bears, the last bear in the Mount Nebo area and the infamous Old Ephraim of Logan Canyon were all killed in the early 1920s.






Snow Basin used to host a sports car hill climb; Plus, Mount Ogden's original name and more ...



SNOW Basin has been site of more than ski races over the decades. For three years, from 1961-1963, there was a "Snow Basin Hill Climb" that raced sports cars on the Snow Basin paved road.
The course included 12 hills in its slightly less than two-mile-long event. It was also billed at the first such car race in Utah for some 20 years.
"100 sports cars to compete in Basin" was a May 29, 1962 headline in the Ogden Standard-Examiner. The Ogden Motor Sports Racing Association was the original sponsor of the race.
The first race in 1961 had to be postponed from May 28, to June 9-10, because of inclement weather.
Even though the race's third and final event, in 1963, attracted 1,300 spectators, it was never held again. A car did flip over in that final event, but no one was injured.


                        Looking down at Snow Basin from the Wasatch Mountain saddle.

After the Snow Basin Race was gone, the annual Moab Hill Climb each spring gained great popularity. (It was later renamed the Easter Jeep Safari.)
-Jump forward to July 1, 1967 and a different Snow Basin Hill Climb was held -- this one for bicycles. However, this race began at the mouth of Ogden Canyon, went east up the Canyon and accessed the original Snow Basin Road to the resort. This race also only lasted a few years.
-MORE HISTORY: The Civilian Conservation Corps ("CCC") helped build the road in Wheeler Canyon in the late 1930s and early 1940s. However, World War II halted their work before the road was completed. According to the Standard-Examiner of Oct. 27, 1955, the Utah National Guard finally completed the road. Several narrow sections of the canyon had to be dynamited to create a two-lane wide road. Today, the road is also titled "Art Nord Drive," in honor of A.J. Nord who was assistant regional forester for the U.S. Forest Service in the area and who pushed to complete the canyon road.


                              An old post card of the original dam in Ogden Canyon.

-BEFORE Pineview Reservoir was built (1934-1937), there was a much smaller reservoir located just west of the current Dam and at the head of Wheeler Canyon. "Big storage reservoir" was an Oct. 31, 1905 headline in the Salt Lake Tribune. This Utah Light & Railway Company and Ogden City water storage project provided electrical power, as well as summer water. Sometimes called "Power Dam," it was built from 1909-1910, was an average of 23 feet deep and held 21 million gallons of water. Its construction meant the road through Ogden Canyon had to be rerouted. This dam was drained and replaced by Pineview, located to the east.


                                     Mount Ogden from the southwest side.

-Ogden Peak was the original title for Mount Ogden Peak, according to the first U.S. Geological Survey through Weber County's eastern side in 1873. Next, according the Standard-Examiner of July 19, 1956, the peak was briefly dubbed "Henderson's Peak," to honor one of the men who conducted that first survey. A third temporary name, "Observatory Peak," was the moniker for the mountain during the time of the Malan's Basin Resort, at the end of the 19th Century. By the early 20th Century, Mount Ogden became the accepted name now listed on all maps.

 
                      Mount Ogden as viewed from the eastern, Snow Basin side.